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What exactly does installation entail?
Subs and amps should be matched as closely as possible for best performance and longevity. Cut a " long section of power wire, attach it to one end of the fuse holder, and attach the other end of the cable to the other fuse holder end. This will provide audio signal to your amp. I had my installation done by so-called professionals. The reason for this is the stock amplifier will be crossed over at a certain frequency. My question is if my oem amp is filtering out my signal to my 4 channel amp is it then best to tap the wires previous to the oem amp to achieve a better sound?. Unlike input from the radio itself, signals running to speakers won't pick up electrical static if wiring is placed near power cables.
I have a sub box that holds two 12" subs. Is the installation price just for putting the subs in the physical box?
If so will I be charged for each sub to be put in the same box? I'm trying to get an idea of how much I shoudl expect to spend on all of this. I do not have any wiring components so what and how much would I likely be looking at accruing? I'm sure I would need to pay for a wiring harness, but what else would I need? So you are looking at getting a full system installed in your vehicle? I love the end result after doing a full job like that.
With that being said, I would be more than happy to try and answer your question for you. So you did find most of the pricing for the job but one thing I would need to know is, what kind of vehicle is it? Without that information, I would not be able to answer specifically how much the parts for the vehicle are. Mount sub install is only if you need the subs installed in the box, so yes, if you install them yourself, there should not be a cost for that, just what is mentioned above.
I hope this gives you an idea of the cost but please don't hesitate to ask any further questions or to provide us with the vehicle info. You may have a moderator stopping by to assist as well. I also got a Metra Receiver Wire Harness and a mounting kit https: I don't believe my car requires an antenna adaptor. I know that the door panels and panel above the back seats need to be removed for the interior speakers. Is there any items that I'm missing that you can see by the list of things I already purchased?
I am trying to gather as much of the supplies as I can as it is usually cheaper to provide them as opposed to paying for them at the time of installation? Thanks for taking the time to answer my initial post and thanks if you find the time to answer this one. I am always happy to answer questions about installation! Thanks for providing me with that info.
Based on the items you purchased, you may have everything needed to do the install. The only thing that I would like to point out is the addition of the 4 channel amp you mentioned. As far as providing the parts for the install, it may be cheaper to provide them but there may be a bundle deal going that will reduce the cost of not only the parts but the install and sometimes the product it's self.
Based on the vehicle, you have everything needed for the install of the items you mentioned before adding in the 4 channel amp. Welcome to the Best Buy forums, where we have the help of real installers within our company helping out in our community! The seat may need to be temporarily removed. Cargo capacity can be compromised. According to experts, loose or poor ground wiring is a leading cause of stereo sound system problems and underperformance. Interestingly, it's also the 1 cause of any electrical issue on a vehicle. All amplifiers require a separate ground wire, so it is important to find an ideal spot to make that connection.
One easy choice is an existing ground point. Look for a wire or cable already connected to a bolt that screws into the body or chassis. If you decide to create a new ground point, you will need to drill a hole NOTE! Check that you have clearance on the other side , and scrape away any paint, undercoating, etc.
An appropriately-sized sheet metal screw and star washer will maximize the quality of the ground connection. With the amplifier location decided, you must now plan the running of wires from it to the battery, head unit, and speakers. If the new amp is installed in the trunk, you will need to plan a way to route the wiring from rear to front while keeping it hidden and protected.
Some partial disassembly will be required to place the wires under carpeting. Consider routing the wiring where access is easily gained, such as under door sill plates, kick panels, pillar post trim panels, and removable rear seat cushions. Usually, these components can be unscrewed or pried loose from the edges rather easily.
Your amp will draw power directly from the vehicle's positive battery terminal, so there will also be the need to run a power cable through the vehicle's firewall. Most vehicles will already have such a hole drilled as a pass-through for other cables, so locate this hole and run your wiring through it. Your amp should come with a power cable that's approximately 15 to 19 feet long. From the battery in the engine compartment, you will be running this wire through the firewall and underneath panels described in the previous paragraph until it reaches the amp.
Your installation package will come with a fuse holder. It may already be integrated into your power cable, but if it isn't then you'll need to install it yourself. The industry standard is that the fuse should be no further than 18" from the battery; less than 12" away is preferable. Cut a " long section of power wire, attach it to one end of the fuse holder, and attach the other end of the cable to the other fuse holder end.
Use appropriate wire stripping and crimping tools to connect terminals, or solder them and cover with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape. The connection at the battery positive cable is typically made with a ring terminal. Do NOT attach it to the battery post itself. The next step is pulling the radio out see our related article on Car Audio Installation and locating the "amplifier turn-on wire" leading from it — typically, it's blue in color.
Gather your equipment (Amp, Subs, Stereo, and wiring). You can find wiring kits at most stores, ~$40 for 4 gauge wiring and In-line fuse, you won't need. What installation accessories do you need for the installation? You must supply the amp's power and ground wiring, an inline fuse, a remote A compact subwoofer amplifier mounted in an out-of-the-way nook in a trunk with plenty of air.
Your amplifier will have a lead designed to mate with this wire, and they can be crimped or soldered together based on your own preference. Once they're connected, the turn-on wire will automatically cue the amp to power up once the radio is turned on. Reference the two illustrations at the beginning of this article to see the blue turn-on wire.
Now it's time to install wires that transmit the signal to your amp. Some stereo receivers may be equipped with RCA type jacks and some may not, but the most important thing to remember is that signal wires and power cords for amps should always be run on opposite sides of the vehicle to prevent electrical noise and static. However, if your radio does not have RCA outputs, it's possible to cut factory speaker wiring and use it as an input source to your amplifier.
You'll need a line output converter that converts high level speaker line outputs from an audio source into low-level RCA jacks on your amp. Cut the factory wiring at the speakers or behind the radio, then plug those wires from the radio into the line output converter. The final step before testing and enjoying your new amp is running new speaker wires from amplifier output jacks to each speaker.
Make sure wiring from positive and negative terminals on the amp leads to corresponding positive and negative terminals on the speakers to ensure proper sound quality. Unlike input from the radio itself, signals running to speakers won't pick up electrical static if wiring is placed near power cables.