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Many shower components come pre-packaged as a set so you are sure to have everything you need, including new faucet handles. There are 3 styles of shower faucets available: Single-handled shower faucets have a tee connection to both hot and cold water supplies and control water temperature and water flow with just 1 handle.
Double-handled shower faucets have 1 control for hot water and 1 control for cold water. In this application, the third handle controls the strength of the water flow and determines whether the water goes to the tub or the shower. Assemble the other necessary tools and equipment. Aside from the replacement parts or the new faucet, the following tools and materials are needed to complete this project: Turn off your main water supply. Locate the shut-off valve for the appropriate bathroom and turn the water off.
Most homes have shut-offs in place for individual bathrooms as well as one for the kitchen so you should not need to shut off the water supply for the whole house. If you are on a city water system, the shut-off valve should be located at the water meter. If your home is on a private well, you will need to find your pressure tank. Newer tanks are usually blue in color while older tanks may be any color.
Typically, the shut-off valve itself is located on the main outlet pipe near the tank. To close this valve at either source, turn it clockwise until closed. This will immediately stop water flow to the house. Once you have shut off the water supply, open the shower faucet valves to release remaining water from the pipes and ensure that the water is indeed off. If you're going to be cutting through the tiles or wall, it's important to drop some cloth to protect the bathtub.
Use a flat-headed screwdriver to pry up the small caps on each of the handles.
Learn how to properly hook up a shower or bathtub faucet while ensuring optimal water pressure and temperature. Hooking up a shower or tub faucet isn't as difficult as you might think. Expect to spend at least half a day installing a shower or bathtub faucet. Many shower panels made to be installed directly to wall studs are single-molded for Rough in the drain line so the opening of the drainpipe will line up with the drain on your shower base. Attach gaskets set the base - Install Shower Pan.
Under the cap will be a screw to release the handles. Remove the retaining screws then remove the handles by pulling them off the valve stems. If the screws are rusted, it may take a little extra effort to loosen the screws. If necessary, use penetrating oil to help break through the rust. To remove the old spout, twist counterclockwise gently and pull towards you at the same time. There may be a small screw that will require removal before you can take it off. You may find that pliers or a pipe wrench are helpful when removing old fixtures.
Use what tools work best for you. On some faucets, the diverter handle will have an arrow on it. Use a flat head screwdriver or a butter knife or something similar to pry the cap from the handle to reveal the retaining screw. Before removing the retaining screw, you'll need to open the valve completely by turning the handle counterclockwise. This keeps the valve from turning while removing the screw. On most two-handle and three-handle faucets, there are chrome flanges about three inches long. Firmly grasp the flange and remove it by turning it counterclockwise. There is a white nylon threaded sleeve that may not come off as you remove the flange.
If this happens, simply grasp the sleeve with your hand or a pair of pliers and turn it counterclockwise to remove it. Single-handled faucets have a large round plate that is attached either with caulking or with screws.
After removing the handle, remove the plate by removing the screws or by cutting the caulking with a utility knife. Then pull the plate from the wall. Remove the valve assemblies. These should have a hex-shaped base near the wall and you can use an adjustable wrench or adjustable pliers to remove them. Turn them counterclockwise until they come loose.
Once removed, use a damp cloth or an old toothbrush to remove debris from the threads of the water inlet pipes. Mark where the new heads will go and make cuts if necessary. If you're installing a brand new faucet, you need to measure and mark the spots where you will be installing shower faucets and a shower head.
Shower faucets are typically installed at a height of 45 to 48 inches After making your measurements, drill holes using tile drill-bits of the appropriate size, depending on the size of your shower components, and remove enough of the wall to access the pipe for proper installation. After making cuts, clean the shower walls with bleach water or white vinegar water.
Do not mix bleach and vinegar, as it can release a noxious gas. Do not allow water to drip behind the wall. If it does, dry thoroughly before installing the new fixtures. Open and check the valve assemblies before installation. Take all of the new valve assemblies and open them fully before installing them. Do this by turning the stems counterclockwise. Each valve needs to be opened when it's installed to allow it to seat fully on the pipe components. Be sure to identify the diverter valve and set it aside to install it last. The process of installing a new faucet will be essential the reverse process of your disassembly.
If you purchased an identical or similar kit to the version you removed, it should be quite easy. Tape the new valves. With the new valve in one hand, hold the threaded base pointing to your other hand. Pull tightly against the threads until the tape breaks. Roll the loose end over the taped threads. Done correctly, the tape will contour to the threads. Repeat this process for all the new valve components. Taping the valves allows a tighter seal to be creating, ensuring a solid faucet that won't leak.
Install the new valve. Place the new valve into the pipe and turn clockwise with your fingers about three or four complete turns. If the valve does not seat in the threaded pipe within the first turn or two, start again. Do not force an improperly seated valve.
It will strip the threads and cause a serious leak. Repeat this step for all valves.
Completely tighten the valves with adjustable pliers or an adjustable wrench. For optimal comfort, position the faucet about 28 inches above the floor for a tub, and about 48 inches for a shower. Most faucets come with a plastic cover that protects the faucet and serves as a guide for the depth at which it must be set.
If you have other faucet setups, such as a three-handle faucet, it may require that supply pipes be spread farther apart than for a single-handle faucet. Threaded adapters screw in for the supplies, spout, or shower arm. A faucet with integral shutoffs comes with a large escutcheon cover plate so you can more easily reach the shutoff valves. Determine how high you want to locate the spout make sure it will clear the tub , faucet handles, and showerhead.
Install a 2x6 brace for each.
Anchor the braces with screws rather than nails so it's easier to move them if they need adjustment. Assemble all the pipes in a dry run. Anchor the faucet according to manufacturer's directions. Once you are sure of the connections, sweat all the fittings. Start at the faucet, then move on to the shower arm and spout connections.
Finger-tighten a threaded nipple—either brass or galvanized—into both drop-ear elbows. Once the wallcovering is in place, remove them and install the shower arm and tub spout. Learn how to properly hook up a shower or bathtub faucet while ensuring optimal water pressure and temperature. Find a Pro Get help from one of our recommended professionals.
How to do it.