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But you'd be better off looking for particular models you know to be superior and no longer made. Some of the ones I have are: These are not guarantees of age, but they are a good sign regardless. Stuff like really good shackle curl or stylish casting on the band buckle or embroidery rather than printing on the liner.
Look for very tall crowns and unusual dents. Ideally you'd have access to old catalogs. I have a western wear catalog from the mids that is handy.
I should get around to scanning some pages. You have a big head. But if I can find a few good ones, you can, too. You might have to get it stretched. Mar 20, 4. My thoughts are if you like the hat and it fits, and meets the needs of why you are a buying the hat, don't worry about what year the hat might have been made. The hat looks very nice, seems clean and no flaws, what are your plans with this hat? You have a nice hat.
Mar 20, 5. I agree with all the replies. When it comes to "old" Stetson cowboy hats, black sweatbands where used in the 's. There is a wealth of info written on this subject. Mar 20, 6. I agree with Major Moore. I think it is a fedora - Although almost always worn by men. Messilane , Nov 11, Figtree3 and yourturntoloveit like this. Figtree3 and Messilane like this. Love this info - thank you so much! Here is some info on dating them - http: Plastic over the liner makes it post I think my hat is s or s based on the logo, the stitching, and a number of things mentioned in that wonderful link!
Do you have a better photo of the logo? As for the "plastic", I'm just going by what you said in your original post. Here's the logo--not a great pic, but I think you can see it. That's the logo adopted in The upper left portion of the center shield has a leaf instead of a field of stars. Also your beaver has the newer leg position. I'm still convinced your hat is no older than mids. From the mids onward to the present day, crowns typically tend to be lower and brims are very narrow. While there is some validity to this rule of thumb due to the changing nature of fashion over the decades, hats of all these styles can be found in all periods, so internal clues to dating hats are needed to make more accurate estimations of age.
Cavanagh Hats in particular are notorious for hiding their age regarding their style. Cavanagh had a clientele that was typically older and more conservative, fashion-wise, than the other brands. As such, they often stuck to a style for decades, and thus one could find a Cavanagh hat from that looks nearly the same, externally, as one from Cavanagh was not so much interested in setting styles as they were in maintaining them.
Still, Cavanagh did produce some modern styles, especially once the changes in the mids came around. As an example, here are two Cavanaghs separated in manufacturing time by thirty years:. From my experience, most Cavanagh hats in existence today, and that come on the market, are almost always from into the s. Earlier ones are rarities, though through diligence one can still find them.
Before we enter the fray on dating Cavanagh hats, I'd like to offer up a caveat. This list is not meant to be a comprehensive list of clues to dating hats, but instead is meant to serve up the most common elements that can help one attain a more accurate gauge of a hat's vintage. For Cavanagh hats, one of the best clues to narrow them to certain time periods, such as decades, is by the crest design used in their liner tips.
Most important is the address for the Cavanagh shop, displayed below the shield. The trademark was registered May 13, These versions are from to , and probably on the earlier side. Note that one style mentions the Cavanagh Edge Process across the top of the shield, and the other doesn't. Derbies could be finished with the Cavanagh Edge process without actually having a Cavanagh Edge, but examples do survive that also feature Cavanagh Edges, though they are hidden under the brim edge binding.
Here are some examples. Within this period, there are a few clues we can use to date a hat. The first clue is this use of a rather rare debossment, "Cavanagh Make," as seen below. These have only shown up on about three hats I have seen so far, and no trademark was ever filed for it. I believe it to be from the first year or so of Cavanagh production, and then its use was discontinued.
For evidence, take this Derby. I'm guessing that the Cavanagh label was not yet in use, necessitating the generic label. The writing to the left of the initials I believe reads "cav div," as in Cavanagh Division. As well, there is a lot number 37, a relatively low lot number, which probably places it in , though it could always be really late in The second label below featuring a lot number is from the circa Derby, though this lot number appears to have far more in common with a "To Duplicate" or "Reorder" number.
This is the second clue.
Photos from left to right, or top to bottom: Because I knew that John Cavanagh liked to drop in from time to time on the Cavanagh division's curling bench to curl the brims on some of his branded hats, I had originally hoped that his initials meant he had personally curled the brim on this particular Derby. No such luck, as the handwriting doesn't match up to his signature elsewhere.
Still, it probably means that the hatter marked it as destined for John Cavanagh, Ltd. These types of handwritten notes don't show up on later hats, making this the third clue. Photos left to right or top to bottom: A typical s label, an NRA-period label example, and a lates printed label. At least some early Cavanagh Derbies, probably through the earlys, feature older styling in their interiors. The leather sweatband seams are on the side, rather than the back, which is a nineteenth-century trait.
This older styling seems to disappear before , though Derby-wearing was on a serious decline at that point anyway. The early Derbies also had the hat size embossed on the sweatband, a feature that disappeared early on as well. If the hat was purchased from a Cavanagh Associate retailer in another city, the name and location of that retailer would be debossed instead.
Side seam of a circa Derby, side-seam of a circa Derby, the debossed hat size in a circa Derby, and the Park Avenue address debossed on the sweatband. With regards to the leather sweatband seam being sewn as opposed to taped together with an adhesive cloth tape, in general this changeover happened around at Hat Corporation of America, though taped seams may have existed for a few years on some hats into the s.
With this innovative system a customer never had to guess what sort of hat he had and never had to be forced to try a new style when his old hat wore out. It was a nice cream colour and quite a thick wool or felt. There are many other things that you need to take into account as you date your hat. Jul 22, Great, thank you so much! Time will tell if Cavanagh Hats will rise again.
One example of taped seams lasting longer than usual is on Carter Sweatbands, a patented design that Cavanagh used on hats in the lates and earlys. These sweatbands were not sewn into the crown of the hat, but instead were buttoned in. Buttons were sewn to the crown, and the reed tape of the sweatband had corresponding buttonholes to attach it to the hat. This would make the sweatband much easier to replace, but the idea must have sounded better in practice, because it was only used during the lates and earlys. Carter sweatband in a soft felt hat.